Never trust the first impression
- a word on hidden parameters
Talking to climbers, you will hear very often the same few explanations (aka excuses), why this or that is not possible. You wanna guess?
Correct: Too short, too weak and, and that’s the one I hate, too female...
We chose this video to show, that this approach of analyzing is in most cases not only wrong, but even harmful for yourself. The truth lies behind obvious and easy answers! So, to the hidden parameters: Yes are really length depending moves, but the ones where a tall person has advantages are really rare. There are much more technique depending, commitment depending, or intimidating moves. In this perfekt example, I (with 1,89m) simple couldn’t do the start without dabbing, while Ola cruised it, the moment she had the beta right. Ask a tall person about low sit-starts, high food holds and narrow cross-moves... not to mention holds, where those huge fingers just don’t go in.
The power problem is a different case, because climbing is also a power sport and it’s a good and fun thing to have. But: especially in the early months of your career, don’t focus too much on power. Priority should have technique, tactics, mental strength and lots of try and error (that’s what you call training and learning). If you wanna pump, then pump, just always climb more!
The gender thing is a social priming, not more , but also not less. Please understand that, yes there are differences at the absolute top level, but don’t take that as an excuse to make yourself smaller.
A) the differences within the sexes are bigger than between them.
B) I can name you dozens of performance defining parameters where women are more gifted in average.
If women would be treated equally from childhood on, would train the same amount and quality and take over the reigns, we’d see a different picture. We’ll not change society, but you can change YOUR approach to problem solving. One of the parameters women are often stronger is flexibility, as demonstrated in that sequence. Again, a male, fit and more experienced athlete got very frustrated on that Boulder...